… Seal Beach, for instance, may be knee-high and gentle as a rabbit one day, and twelve feet and rubbing its back against the underside of the pier’s high deck the next, actually shaking the ground with its weight, but its underlying spirit is cheerful, accommodating. It radiates goodwill. It may get drunk with the power of the Pacific, but it is not a mean drunk. It may wrestle you to the ground and thump your chest, but the next moment it will be helping you up, grinning with irrepressible cheer, buying you a drink. With salt on the rim.
— Author Peter Heller describing the spirit of a wave in “Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life and Catching the Perfect Wave”
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