It’s been a year since I’ve been surfing. I went out during a big swell today and took a snapshot of the forecast before getting into the water at Surfrider at 6:15 a.m. Not surprisingly, the lineup was packed. Probably 200 guys out there. But it was awesome when I found my waves. Some of the sets got around head high. I got probably 5 or 6 rides on waist and shoulder high ones that seemed to go on for yards and yards, from second point, trimming and turning along the way.
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